Oh to be in England

Our basic hotel not doing breakfast, we found a place that did. We didn’t want to risk Wetherspoons next door in case Steve was tempted by a pint of Ruddles! Then a couple of loops round the Lancaster inner ring road while Andrew went to a bike shop for what is labelled ‘Chamois cream’ but cyclists just call ‘Arse Butter’. Then to Boots. Then back to the bike shop to collect his credit card that he’d dropped. So a later than planned start!

Our route went north (obvs) out through north Lancs and into Cumbria/Westmoreland.

We passed through Kirby Lonsdale and on to Beck Foot where we took the very hilly option up the east side of the Lune Valley. I was accosted by a gentleman farmer who said how pleased he was that some Lejog people had discovered this side of the valley. Seemingly most take the easy route on the west side! We’re not that bright!

Being a bit philosophical…. From the east side, the Lune valley is wide open and stunning. I stood high up on a narrow winding undulating country road with the huge expanse of the valley around me. There were half a dozen wild horses blocking my path. Thoroughly breathtaking…..in spite of the fact that the M6 runs right up the middle of the valley! Rather than a blight, it was moving people and goods along and stopping them clogging up the countryside. Have you ever broken down on one? One minute you’re part of the team, and the next you’re in the loneliest and most inhospitable place on earth. Today I was in a wonderful place. The motorway was there but, in a way, it wasn’t part of the landscape. It seemed small and insignificant.

The Lune valley is where Tebay Services are. Some debate about whether this is the best, or the second best, motorway service station in England. But in the village just behind is the J-38 Truck Stop. This is definitely the best eatery in England for hungry truckers and three hungry cyclists. We all ate far too much!

Interestingly (says Steve), the Lune valley drains to Morecambe bay. After this and a hard climb over Orton Crag, made all the more difficult by the huge lunch, we descended to the Eden valley. This drains to the Solway Firth, reminding us Scotland is approaching.

We all agreed this was about the most beautiful ride we have ever done. It’s a part of England that I have driven east/west across many times and up/down via the M6, and never really noticed. Why would you come here? Isn’t it just that bit between the Dales and the Lake District? But it really is England at its finest. Why did we bother with Cornwall and Devon when we could have just come here?!

Our overnight, after many more feet of climbing than Garmin suggested, is a great pub called the Fox and Pheasant in Armathwaite. View of the river from my room. Conversation about salmon fishing in the bar. Good food, friendly staff (with pink hair, tattoos, piercings, and a sense of humour), and nice beer to boot 😀

Stats 69 miles 5143 feet (Garmin maps said 3235!!)

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